Journal · Lips
How to choose lipstick colour: a makeup artist’s tricks
Do you find yourself staring at the lipstick counter, wondering which shade will actually suit you? Choosing the right lipstick doesn’t have to be complicated or overwhelming. Here’s how to choose lipstick colour the way I do for my clients, from your perfect everyday shade to the red and the nude that were made for you.
By Corrie Elle, founder and lead makeup artist · Updated October 2026 · 6 min read
The short version
- For everyday, pick a shade one or two tones richer than your natural lips.
- Test colour on your fingertip, not the back of your hand, because it’s closer to your lip pigment.
- Match reds to your undertone: cherry reds for rosy skin, orange-based reds for olive or golden skin.
- The prettiest nude is slightly deeper or brighter than your skin, never paler.
Find your everyday shade first
When I do makeup for everyday life, I focus on enhancing natural beauty. The most flattering way to do that with lipstick is surprisingly simple: choose a colour one or two shades darker than your natural lip colour.
Because it builds on the pigment you already have, this shade looks effortless and polished at the same time. It’s the lipstick you can wear to work, to brunch and on camera without a second thought.
How to test lipstick before you buy
We’ve all bought a lipstick that looked amazing in the store, only to get home and think, yikes, this isn’t what I wanted at all. If you’re not an impulse buyer, you’ve probably swatched it on the back of your hand first.
The back of your hand is useful for checking texture, such as whether a formula is smooth, creamy or dry. However, it can’t give you a fair read on colour. Our lips have their own pigment, which changes how a lipstick looks once it’s on, while our hands have none.
My trick: swatch the lipstick on your fingertip or the pinker part of your palm instead. In my experience, that’s the next best thing to trying it on your lips.
How to choose lipstick colour for your undertone
Your undertone is the subtle colour beneath your skin, and it matters more than how light or deep your skin is. Use these as guidelines; there are always exceptions.
Rosy or pink undertones
Cool
- Silver jewellery usually flatters you
- Try cherry reds with a blue base
- Berries and cool pinks look fresh
Olive, golden or ivory undertones
Warm
- Gold jewellery usually flatters you
- Try fire-engine reds with an orange base
- Corals and terracottas glow on you
A mix of both
Neutral
- Both silver and gold look good on you
- Most reds work, so choose by mood
- Rosy nudes are an easy everyday pick
How to choose the right red lipstick
I can’t tell you how many women tell me they can’t wear red lipstick. I happily correct them every time. Red is timeless and beautiful, and there’s a shade out there for everyone; it’s simply a matter of finding the right one.
The secret lies in the undertone. As a general guide, skin with rose or pink undertones pairs beautifully with cherry reds, which have a cooler blue base. On the other hand, skin with olive or ivory, yellow undertones looks wonderful in a fire-engine red with a warmer orange base.
To wear red confidently, line your lips first, apply in thin layers and blot between them. Then clean up the edges with a little concealer, so the shape looks crisp and intentional.
How to choose the right nude lipstick
In my opinion, the prettiest nude is one that’s slightly more vibrant or a little deeper than your skin tone. When a nude is paler than your skin, it tends to wash you out rather than flatter you.
If you’re very fair, look for a nude with a hint of pink. For olive and deeper skin, aim for something closer to a warm sandy beige, caramel or cocoa, depending on your depth. Either way, the lipstick should look like your lips, only better.
Lipstick tips for thinner lips
Lips come in all shapes and sizes. If yours are on the thinner side and you’d like them to look fuller, stick to light and medium shades, since very dark colours can make lips look smaller.
Creamy lipsticks and tinted glosses are also great choices, because their sheen catches the light and creates the illusion of plumpness. For extra fullness, add a dab of gloss to the centre of the lower lip.
A jewel-toned favourite
In a city full of lights and luxury, a jewel-toned lipstick feels right at home. Even in Dubai, my favourite colour to wear was Kir Royale by Bite Beauty, a Toronto brand. It was so lush, the perfect ruby with a touch of berry.
Bite Beauty closed in 2022, but the lesson behind that shade still stands. A jewel-toned ruby or berry with a cool base flatters a surprising number of skin tones, especially in a creamy finish that keeps lips comfortable.
Choosing a shade for your big day? Read my guide to wedding lipstick.
How to choose lipstick colour: your questions
How do I know which lipstick colour suits me?
Start with your undertone and your natural lip colour. For everyday, choose a shade one or two tones richer than your lips; for reds and nudes, match the undertone of the lipstick to your skin’s undertone.
Can everyone wear red lipstick?
Yes. The trick is choosing the right red. Generally, cool, rosy undertones suit blue-based cherry reds, whereas warm, olive or golden undertones suit orange-based reds.
How do I test lipstick without trying it on my lips?
Swatch it on your fingertip or the pinker part of your palm. The back of your hand shows texture well, but it has no lip pigment, so the colour can look very different.
What lipstick colour makes lips look bigger?
Light to medium shades in a creamy or glossy finish make lips look fuller, because the sheen reflects light. Very dark matte shades tend to make lips look smaller.
Want a shade chosen just for you? Book a lesson or trial.
In a private makeup lesson or a bridal trial, we’ll find the lip colours that flatter you most and show you how to wear them. Tell us your date to check availability in Toronto, the GTA and Ottawa.